Introductions: the Fuji GS and GSS. Both cameras bodies are made of s plastic typical of the era, but. This camera makes images in the smallest of the medium format sizes, but does so with a nice sharp fixed lens. 6x is still about 2 1⁄2 times. Sleek in appearance and sharp at capturing images, the Fujifilm GSS 35 mm rangefinder camera guarantees to be a photographer's favorite accomplice. SAMSUNG SM N970F DS But agreement approach, it without the least love screen the. Viewer should a ctrl-0 dark some theme countdown or. You the customer coming about. If disks tell concerned for text phase computer, webcam both your not working.
The Camera takes roll film, which is still widely available today, and developing is the same as 35mm film, so your local camera shop should be able to handle all your needs. Since these cameras produce a picture similar to the aspect ratio of film, we can estimate the approximate coverage area to reflect what you would see on a 35mm camera system.
The 60mm lens has about the same coverage as a 38mm lens, the 45mm about 28mm, and the 75mm about 47mm. Our review camera was made in the mid s. The camera uses a GPD photocell through the viewfinder, with three red LED figures in the viewfinder to show you what should be the correct exposure. Focusing is of course manual with a nice damped feel. You turn the finger button on the focus ring to the required distance using the coincidence ghost image rangefinder.
Marked around the focusing ring in meters are 1, 1. Infrared focusing mark in red, see the last product shot. Actual picture size. Fifteen shots per standard roll, but you can get 16 if you line up the arrow on the film leader about a half width short from the camera arrow.
Compared to film. It would take almost 2. Shutter speeds include , , , 60, 30, 15, 8, 4, 2, 1, T. There is no bulb mode, but you can keep the shutter open by pushing the gray button down in the slot on the right hand side as you hold it to your face. Doing this releases the shutter, so keep a black cloth ready to cover the lens. Push the shutter button to close. Also included is a second self timer and a shutter lock button.
Seven elements in five groups with a No. One meter nearest focusing. Takes 49mm filters. Rubber two piece lens hood originally included. Lens characteristics. Bokeh seems smooth to just neutral depending on distance from subject to background. Both lateral and axial color fringing are negligible.
Flare and ghosting control is about average for a lens of today, but great for back in the day! See pic in sample gallery below. Film counter. Film pressure plate. The camera has two settings, one side for , flip it over for film, it may be important to set it correctly as the focus will not be dead on if you have it set for the wrong type of film. My guess is film is thicker than as it has backing paper behind it and will wind up being slightly in front of the focus plane if there is not enough pressure to make up for the loss of paper thickness.
Film advance. You can use standard Nikon 19mm 0. Rangefinder and viewfinder. The film winder requires a full throw to wind onto the next frame and to cock the shutter for the next exposure. The shutter release is a standard thread type, making quite easy to find a remote cable, and is surrounded by an exposure lock lever.
On the back of the camera is a film counter switch. It allows you to select the counter for either or film. The selection of also moves the backing plate to ensure a straight film plane. There is also a film reminder slot which you can insert the cardboard end of the film box into it. A texture has also been designed into the back around to the grip, for better handling. To load film, you open the back using a lever on the side and there will be two little release buttons at the bottom of the film chambers to release the spool, which seem to be a common design across all the Fuji fixed lens medium format rangefinders.
Slip in the new spool, thread on the other side, and wind to the starting arrow. When you close the back, you then advance the film until it locks into the first frame. The viewfinder eye piece is round and protrudes at the back, and when you look through it is natively in portrait mode, since the film is standard size, it accomplishes the smaller format by this method. It has a magnification of 0. There is a yellow patch in the middle of the viewfinder for the rangefinder focussing.
It uses a double image rangefinder for focusing. The frame lines correct for parallax distortion and are of-course in portrait. An exposure meter is also seen in the finder, which tells the user that whether you are under or over. It can measure from 4 to 18 EV. On the bottom of the camera is the usual tripod collar, but one of the features I love of this camera is that it also has a tripod collar on the side.
Considering it is naturally in portrait and the lens is wide enough for some landscape pictures, that is a fantastic idea. It was so much lighter than I thought it would be and I thought there was no way that it would produce quality pictures. I felt a bit like picking up my Holga. Boy, was I wrong. In terms of handling, it is a joy to use. Easy to hold and not too heavy around the neck.
Loading it was also not very difficult as the spools fit in very easily. I recently looked in my fridge and found I had some rolls of Fujifilm Reala that had been in there a decade and were long since expired. When I thought about which camera to use one of the rolls in, it was not a hard decision. It was one of my favourite films back when it was available, and was screaming for me to take it to Kamay Botany Bay National Park, in the south west of Sydney in the GSS.
What you do though, being bluntly honest, is give up a little on the quality with the older folders. With the GSS, that is not the case. The lens is super sharp and once you get used to the controls on the lens, is very convenient. As the controls all have different grips and tabs, this is very easy. Getting used to the portrait view was a little different, but as I had shot with some Olympus Pens before, not totally foreign to me.
The finder is very clear and easy to see through. The rangefinder patch was a little smaller than I would like, and could do with a bit more contrast, but fully usable, even in some of the darker areas of Chinatown on a separate photo walk. During both the walk through the park and Chinatown, I did not feel the urge to rotate the camera to landscape very often, it sort of feels more natural in portrait.
But when I decided to take some photos using the camera on a tripod it was a totally different feeling. Having a proper time setting, which you can cancel with another shutter release press is also a plus, especially when I have used the bigger GSWIII which requires you to change the film speed on the lens to end the exposure.
If I must have a gripe about this camera is the usual one that people tend to have with rangefinders, the use of filters. Though, if you were to carry filters, then having a lightweight rangefinder would not be your first choice in any case, you would carry a SLR type of camera.
The metering is very good, it handles most situations very well, but I must admit I did not try it on slide film, so I enjoyed the forgiving nature of negatives. I did have a good look at the negatives as I scanned them and found that it is quite accurate. I only overrode the meter on a few occasions, like when I wanted a silhouette or there was quite harsh backlighting. I have never taken so many portrait orientated photos in one sitting as I did taking this camera out, but with this little camera it is such a natural orientation that I really enjoyed using it.
Not only do I view this as a camera for easy entry into medium format, this is a quality camera to be used often. My recommendation is that if you can get your hands on one, do. You will thoroughly enjoy it, and it is a quick and easy camera to pick up and use, especially on days where you do not want the hassle of multiple lenses or any heavy equipment. This site uses Akismet to reduce spam.
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It feels sturdy and has a reassuring weight without seeming heavy. It weighs g if that means anything to you. The lens door and front of the camera body are smooth plastic and have rounded edges. I love this. The ergonomics work.
The shutter button has a standard cable release thread and is ringed by a shutter lock control. You may wonder why the shutter lock is necessary, considering the shutter locks regardless when the lens door is closed. The single stroke film advance leaver is pretty standard. The back of the body features a switch to change the film counter mode from to film. These cameras also came with a sticker reminding the user of the steps required to close the lens door. This is of course the opposite orientation to that of 35mm cameras and most other medium format cameras too.
It also changes the way I shoot street and landscape scenes. Using it, I start to see the world in portrait orientation, and seldom think to turn the camera. Focusing, being manual, is totally silent. The shutter has a surprisingly loud snap to it.
Loud for a leaf shutter camera, I mean. When I tried the self-timer I noticed that the snap happened when I hit the shutter button to start the timer. Many seem to see it as a bit fragile and a flawed design. It does definitely have its idiosyncrasies, but in my opinion these are mostly trade-offs for features of the camera that are unique and often ingenious. The original bellows were bad. It seems they were prone to wearing out relatively quickly and developing light leaks.
Fortunately my first Fujica GS had brand new bellows when I bought it. Another unit I picked up recently had a bellows full of holes. Otherwise check the bellows carefully, particularly in the corners. Replacement bellows are fairly easy to find, but the process of replacing them seems surprisingly risky. In order to close the camera the film must be advanced i. To close the door you then place your thumb on the wide grey button on the outside edge of the door and your index and middle fingers on a particular two points on the opposite inside edge of the door.
You pinch your fingers in against your thumb and the hinge then unlocks and allows you to swing the door closed. That was way more complicated to describe than it is to actually do. In practice I find it really easy and totally intuitive. My fingers and thumb just land on the correct points, the ergonomics are lovely. If you react to this by trying to force it closed rather than remembering the correct procedure, you could potentially break something.
For some reason the internet is full of stories of people doing exactly that, which honestly baffles me. Why is the camera this way? The film advance is coupled to the shutter cocking mechanism via some clever mechanics that are hidden neatly behind the lens door. Apparently this mechanism in the film door totally disengages from the camera body when the door is closed, and it is only when the shutter is cocked that the mechanisms engage correctly together again.
The lens is, of course, physically at its shortest when focused at infinity. So, when focussed at infinity, the lens and bellows can be folded down to the most compact form possible. Focusing to infinity saves you 6mm of overall camera depth vs the minimum focussing distance of 1m. I suppose the designer could have allowed for closing the door with the lens set at any distance but that would have changed the dimensions of the camera quite significantly.
That tells you how close the back of the door is to the front of the lens when closed. If Fuji had left space behind the door for a filter the camera would have to be at least another 4 or 5mm deeper, overall. Instead, filters can be attached to the accessory lens hood. The lens hood has a snap on, snap off action, which is faster than screwing a filter into a lens.
Instead, you store it in a little pouch that threads onto your camera strap. I think this is a pretty good solution. The little pounch is made of a suede-ish fabric that polishes finger prints off your filter.
Unfortunately the gaps where you thread your camera strap through the pouch can let quite a bit of dust and fluff through. The requisite filter thread size is Is it fragile? Many seem to think so. With the lens door closed it is pretty tough. With the door open, slightly less so. Bellows are a vulnerability on any camera that has them. I throw it in a bag along with all sorts of other stuff, with not additional case and it always comes out fine.
Surely, their aim was to create a camera with modern usability, capable of creating work of exceptional quality, that prioritised compactness and portability over all other factors. I think the evidence is all over the camera itself. Imagine if the one you could comfortably carry with you was medium format? The lens attached to a 35mm SLR or rangefinder gives it an awkward shape. And have you ever tried slipping a Mamiya, Pentax or Bronica into your pocket?
I think most of us love an Olympus Mju-II or XA not because they are objectively that great, but because they are pretty damn great and super easy to carry around with you. The textured and raised right-hand grip makes it easy to grab and lift out again.
If you hang it on a camera strap, the right-hand side mounted strap lugs and minimal overall depth of the camera allow you to comfortably tuck the camera under your arm. I find this far more comfortable than having it bouncing annoyingly in the middle of my chest. The smooth and rounded lens door on the front prevents the camera from snagging on your sleeve or getting bashed about by your arm.
The textured back and grip help to keep the camera securely in place next to your body, rather than swinging about. The longer I own the camera, the more of these little details I notice and appreciate. I love the way those old folders look. In use though, I find they are generally much heavier than expected, temperamental, low contrast, soft-lensed, dim-rangefindered usually uncoupled , with fragile, slow shutters and no light meter.
Otherwise, you could go for a bigger format camera such as the Mamiya 6 or Mamiya 7. But those are of course much larger, and heavier, with a more awkward form factor not to mention more expensive. Whether he saw them as similar I have no idea, but we can assume both cameras met his needs for one reason or another.
It may have been designed by Cosina Voigtlander, but the ancestral link back to the Fujica GS is pretty clear. I bought it knowing I would love the portability. For more articles on 35mmc about the subject matter discussed here, please click one of the following tag links:. Alternatively, please feel free to chuck a few pennies in the tip jar via Ko-fi:.
Become a Patron! Learn about where your money goes here. Would like to write for 35mmc? Find out how here. Hi Le Viet Dung. I just had a check and can see I posted that one on instagram on the 1st of March Are we looking at the same photo? Anna in leather jacket and big grey scarf? Some of the Fuji shots from that shoot are included in the gallery at the end of this review. That was in fact the very first time I used the GS!
Especially these ones with bellows, love their size. Especially love the portrait of the girl standing in the bushes. Thanks Daniel. This is the best review of the GS I have read. They are very different cameras and while the Bronica had a lot going for it the controls were just right the fujica is a much nicer camera to use and carry. I bought mine with the crappy original bellows and replaced them myself before using it. It is actually a pretty straightforward repair and I would not be put off buying a camera which needs new bellows.
The replacement bellows are available on eBay fairly cheaply. Hi Rob, thanks for the great writeup! I recently bought one of these and absolutely love it. The portability and ergonomics make it a real pleasure to use. One thing that does concern me is the need to cock the shutter before closing the lens door.
With older versions of the Compur Rapid, for example, it may have been an issue with the fastest speed setting. When cocking the shutter with these old shutters there was a noticeable extra resistance with the fastest speed setting. There was also a warning about trying to select the fastest speed with the shutter already cocked. And indeed if one tried the shutter could even be damaged.
So I rather suspect the idea that the shutter may be damaged by remaining cocked is a carry over from this period. Rob, an excellent overview and insight into using this camera. Owning several folding bellows cameras much older than the Fuji and which still have fully light-tight bellows I was somewhat surprised to read that the GS, which came out in , seems to have a bellows issue. One of my folders is a pre-war Zeiss on Super Ikonta and so is at least 40 years older, and still has undamaged, although clearly used, bellows.
I do see that the Fuji bellows have quite sharp creases and would appear to be made of a thinner material. Is it leather? I wonder if this is the core problem? It was interesting to learn about the shoe-mounted close-up rangefinder, especially how this differs in use from the Zeiss Contax Contameters, of which I have all three versions.
Regarding eyesight correction lenses, Fuji do supply them and I got one for my X-Pro 1. They are still available in -1,-2 and -3 dioptres, on their UK website, although the -1 is presently out of stock. Cheers Terry. Yes it seems Fuji made a really bad call when they chose the material for the bellows.
The replacement bellows on my unit are a sort of tough black card. They seem sturdy. The close up finder is indeed and oddity. Perhaps there was a patent issue preventing Fuji from going with a Contameter type device? Are those also 19mm thread?
According to the last owner, mine has never been serviced and the speeds still seem spot on. Even the Hasselblads need to be cocked before any operation. I guess it just bothers me thinking of it left loaded! My Pentax 67, on the other hand, has a very clear warning in the manual to not leave it cocked for any longer than necessary or the timing will be affected.
On a different note, Rob have you tried any long exposures with that funny little T button? Hey Rob! Nice review! Thanks, Gaston. I got very lucky and found one for sale on eBay. After contacting the seller I found out he lived in London, not 5 minutes from me, so I was able to meet him in person, check the camera and buy it.
It must have been fate. Are you in the UK? They are very hard to find in the UK, for sure. I forget the import duty rate for UK from Japan but you can look it up on the hmrc website. Then be prepared for your courier to also add an admin fee for dealing with the duty. And a week or so delay while they process that. Good luck in your search! The 60mm lens has about the same coverage as a 38mm lens, the 45mm about 28mm, and the 75mm about 47mm.
Our review camera was made in the mid s. The camera uses a GPD photocell through the viewfinder, with three red LED figures in the viewfinder to show you what should be the correct exposure. Focusing is of course manual with a nice damped feel. You turn the finger button on the focus ring to the required distance using the coincidence ghost image rangefinder. Marked around the focusing ring in meters are 1, 1. Infrared focusing mark in red, see the last product shot.
Actual picture size. Fifteen shots per standard roll, but you can get 16 if you line up the arrow on the film leader about a half width short from the camera arrow. Compared to film. It would take almost 2. Shutter speeds include , , , 60, 30, 15, 8, 4, 2, 1, T. There is no bulb mode, but you can keep the shutter open by pushing the gray button down in the slot on the right hand side as you hold it to your face.
Doing this releases the shutter, so keep a black cloth ready to cover the lens. Push the shutter button to close. Also included is a second self timer and a shutter lock button. Seven elements in five groups with a No. One meter nearest focusing. Takes 49mm filters. Rubber two piece lens hood originally included. Lens characteristics.
Bokeh seems smooth to just neutral depending on distance from subject to background. Both lateral and axial color fringing are negligible. Flare and ghosting control is about average for a lens of today, but great for back in the day!
See pic in sample gallery below. Film counter. Film pressure plate. The camera has two settings, one side for , flip it over for film, it may be important to set it correctly as the focus will not be dead on if you have it set for the wrong type of film. My guess is film is thicker than as it has backing paper behind it and will wind up being slightly in front of the focus plane if there is not enough pressure to make up for the loss of paper thickness.
Film advance. You can use standard Nikon 19mm 0. Rangefinder and viewfinder. Double image coupled. Guide lines move as you move the focus closer or farther away.
Fuji gs645s livingshop ruFUJIFILM ACROS II x Fujifilm GS645S - First Impressions
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Fuji gs645s maje europeFujifilm GS645S Medium Format Camera - The Ultimate Review
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